As we expand our bike fleet we want to ensure we get the setups right. Our riders vary in experience and our tours vary in difficultly so getting the bikes just right is essential.
The big question which comes up is which crankset and which rear cassette.
So…cranks, ie what your pedals hang off – Standard (double) cranks are 52-39 (ie 52 teeth on the big chainwheel and 39 on the small inner chainwheel), compact cranks which are a more modern take and increasingly popular, are 50-34 and then there are triples 52-39-30 (there are now also semi-compact and all varieties but these will do for now!).
The bigger the number the heavier the gear, the smaller the easier – essential for hills especially somewhere like the Alps on our Hannibal expedition! These are hugely effected by the rear cassette (the sprockets on your back wheel) which can be anything from 11-21 to 11-34 (with a adjusted rear derailleur)
So for our riders what we are trying to do is ensure they have the greatest gear range available, especially when they get to the hills. Now you would assume that a triple will do this, and the truth is if you put the biggest cassette in conjunction with a triple it will. However a standard Specialized Comp Triple, a fantastic bike and the backbone of our fleet, which our riders have ridden and loved due to its range of gears comes with a 11-30 cassette. Therefore its lowest gear is obtained by being on the 30 on the crank and the 30 at the back, a 1 to 1 ratio which makes for a great granny gear, essential for long steep climbs. A compact crank can actually achieve the same result. The easiest gear for these will be a 34 on the Crank and a 34 on the rear cassette, again 1 to 1 and exactly the same output as the triples easiest gear.
So you may have first been put off by the fact that we aren’t running triples but the truth is you will have exactly the same ‘easy’ gear for those testing days in the hills! You will also have a little less weight and smoother performance. This also increases the compatibility of our bikes as compacts are much more common than triples ensuring easier maintenance and repairs.
This is a table showing the ‘output’ required for each gear combination. You’ll note the 30-30 and the 34-34 are the same. Therefore easiest triple chainring equals easiest compact with a nice big rear cassette!
The official meeting time for the tour is 6pm on Saturday March 15th in the lobby of the Hanoi Imperial hotel where we will spend the night before heading up into the mountains the following morning.
If you plan to arrive earlier we recommend, for the sake of convenience, that you book into this hotel – http://www.hanoiimperialhotel.com . We will inform the hotel that you are with the tour group if you book extra nights and they should then be able to coordinate the rooming allocations. Please note though that you should book a deluxe room category if they want to remain in the same room when the tour starts. There are presently some good deals to be found on the Agoda website.
If you are not able to get there before 6pm it isn’t a problem so long as you are ready to go the following morning. We plan to leave the hotel by 7am the following day. Simply let us know what time you are likely to arrive and we’ll organise things accordingly.
Our local partner in Vietnam is Grasshopper so in the event the hotel doesn’t know who Ride and Seek is they are probably working off a booking for Grasshopper.
Getting to the first hotel from the airport
If you wish to use our contacts to organise a transfer to the first hotel you need to have done this by March 12th. Cost of the transfer is $45 (one way) which should be paid directly to the driver. Payment in cash either in USD or VND (exchanged rate US$1. = VND21,000,000.) To book a transfer email Hoia at asia@grasshopperadventures.com.
If you prefer to do it independently Vinasun and Malinh are two companies that are considered reputable and can be found easily in the airport. The following blog provides a bit of an overview – http://www.vietnamonline.com/transport/taxi.html – on the taxi situation in Hanoi.
Passports
We are required to show everyones passports at every hotel. From experience the best way to do this is for us to collect in the passports at the start of the tour and keep hold of them until the end. This isn’t obligatory but it is generally the simplest way to manage things.
Getting money out
We usually wait until we get in country to get local currency from ATM’s that can be located in the airport and across the city. Bear in mind though that most have a limit of the equivalent of $100/$200 per transaction so you might need to make a couple of seperate withdrawals.
Guide tips
Just a reminder that whilst your Australian guides are not expecting tips – a beer should suffice! – it is customary to tip the local guides. The suggested tip is $40 from each participant for the support team as a whole so please take this into account when you withdraw money. Hand this in to Matt or Dylan at the end of the tour and we’ll make sure it gets divided up correctly.
Guide team
Matt and Dylan obviously!
The local allstars!
Lead local guide – Thang. Translates. Requests things for you. Plans the logistics. Orders the other staff around. Travels on the back of a motorbike ahead of the group, so he can point out any major hazards. Orders meals, deals with authorities, manages the money, sweet talks the hoteliers and restaurateurs.
Lead rider – Mr Neth (Chanmakara Hong). Rides like the wind. If he has any remaining energy, he’ll help Ratha with the bikes. Neth is Cambodian and has represented his country. He’s a nice fella and can ride well.
Cook – Thiem. Ensures that there is a good variety of vegetables and meats provided by working with the local restaurants who in many cases, have limited capacity. Probably doesn’t sleep enough, drinks like a fish and has a temper. Just like cooks everywhere.
Massage therapists. Two gents who are masters of their profession. They’ll obviously do the bulk of their work in the afternoons and evenings.
Drivers. They drive. Probably smoke and talk on the phone too much, but never when driving. If they do, please feel free to admonish them and dob them into Thang. No, in all seriousness, they love this and they’ll usually do their bit by helping to fill water bottles and joke around with the riders.
Hotel list
1. Hanoi | Hanoi Imperial Hotel | +84 4 3933 5555.
2. Tam Son | Hotel 567 | +84 21 9384 6129.
3. Meo Vac | Hoa Cuong Hotel | +84 21 9387 1888.
4. Bac Me | Huy Duong Hotel | +84 914 420 594.
5. Nghia Lo | Nghia Lo Hotel | +84 29 387 0106.
6. Than Uyen | Hoan Quan Hotel | +84 231 378 4163.
7. Sapa | Victoria Sapa Hotel | +84 20 387 1522.
General Tips
Don’t drink tap water. Always bottled water. Water we provide is OK. In Ha Giang, don’t drink water in jugs on tables. Actually, it’s fine for the majority of cases, but it’s often just filtered, so it depends on the filter condition.
Ice. Only take it if it has a hole in the middle. This is drinking ice. In Ha Giang, you won’t encounter much drinking ice.
Soap and towels – All hotels will provide these but in Ha Giang there are few frills. Might be worth bringing your own towel and washing products.
Always wash hands. Be obsessive about it. We have never had a case of food poisoning, but there are always cases of viral gastro. We theorise that this is more to do with personal hygiene and the fact that bodies are under significant physical strain from the riding and general conditions.
If anyone is on antimalarials, they’ll probably be very sensitive to the sun, so they need to apply sunscreen more often.
Be careful with cash. A few of the dong notes are very similar in color and with all the zeros, they can be easily mixed up by foreigners. Notably 10,000 looks like 100,000 and 20,000 looks like 500,000. Be very clear on what you are handing to someone and count your change. It’s not such an issue in the provinces, but in Hanoi and Sapa, you need to be on your toes.
Don’t take mini cabs around Hanoi, stick with the Vinasun or Malinh cabs. The others tamper with meters and try all sorts of tricks.
It’s fair to bargain on anything you buy, unless it has the price marked. The Vietnamese love a bargain. Don’t think of it as a ripoff. It’s just a game and one they’ll play hard. Smile, laugh, joke and cut the price by 50%. If you end up at 75% of the original asking price, in most cases, you are doing well. If you do happen to be eating independently, ask for the price on food before you eat. In Hanoi only really.
Toilets – Along the ride route, there won’t be many toilets, so it’s just a matter of finding a large clump of bamboo. Good idea for ladies to take a sarong or something for this and good for everyone to take tissue with them. In many restaurants and roadside stops, the toilets if they do exist, don’t have tissue. In all cases, do not flush toilet tissue. There is a little bin next to the toilet where you put the tissue.
In all cases, you will get further in negotiation or service requests by asking with a smile and not raising your voice. Even if the response is poor, maintain the smile and the calm voice and just push push push. If you get angry or pushy, the shutters go up and you have no hope of getting what you want.
There are a bunch of cultural taboos but many of these are forgiven by locals as they know foreigners are from someplace… foreign. Just try not to move things or point with your feet. Don’t point. Don’t pat anyone on the head and be ultra respectful of older people and you’ll get along well with all the locals.
When riding, bear in mind that everyone uses their horn. There is no aggression in this. It’s considered the most basic element of safe driving. It’s to warn people that you are coming. So a truck will come up behind you and give a toot, that just means I’m here, don’t move out. If there is repeated and urgent tooting, it means I’m coming, I don’t have enough space, you should get off the road!
Motorbikes are used to merging through each others paths, so they will tend to do the same with you. Riders need to be prepared for motorcyclists, sidling up to the pack and then trying to cut through the middle of it to get to the curb. They don’t mean to be rude, it’s just their way of driving. The riders need to be aware of this and it’s therefore not good practice to ride as a pack through towns. Leave about 3 meters between each rider or each pair of riders.
Trucks and all other vehicles like to cut corners, so never approach a bend or corner assuming that you have a clear run. Always ensure you have an exit point and for this reason, don’t ride two abreast into blind bends and corners.
Locals will sometimes come up alongside riders for a bit of a chat. It’s likely also that some young lads might side up to the ladies if they are in lycra for a bit of a perve. It’s worth keeping an eye on this and for one of the guys to be not too far off most of the time.
Route amendments
As is always the case with running a tour in remote Vietnam we are always at the mercy of the authorities with regards road repairs. Fortunately the monsoon season this year was relatively kind but there are still some significant road works on the route. Most of these we can can get around but on Day 5 there is a stretch which is basically unpassable. On this day we will have a shuttle in the morning before riding.
Visa information
Details about how to attain a visa in Australia via the consulate can be found here – http://www.vietnamembassy.org.au/Consular.htm.
Guest Survey
Before the tour starts we need some information off you in order to cover our insurance obligations as well as ensuring that we have the correct personal data for you. If you haven’t done so already could you fill out the following form – https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/FT27ZNS
Weather
March is amongst the best months to travel in Vietnam; conditions are at their very best with dry, bright weather expected the along the entire length of the country. In the north where we are cycling you can expect plenty of sunshine and clear blue skies, and whilst temperatures start to rise it remains cool with little if any rainfall (avg temp: 19 °C).
At night temperatures will go down to around 15 degrees so pack accordingly and during the day we expect a few hot days. Since we are in the mountains though it is always best to come prepared and wind-breakers and arm/leg warmers are good insurance.
What to bring?
This is a section that we could spend an age on but I think that packing is such a subjective thing that it really isn’t worth it. What I will say is that the nature of the tour is such that you will want plenty of bike gear as it won’t be easy to get stuff washed and dried along the way. You’ll find a way to wash your kit but with changing hotels every day it is important that you bring a few spares – there’s nothing worse than soggy knicks!
In terms of evening wear there is nowhere that we go that has a dress code and casual wear is the order of the day. Warm weather clothing is an important consideration. As mentioned in the weather section March is not usually a month when temperatures drop below 15 degrees but even so it is a good idea to bring a wind-breaker and arm/leg warmers just in case.
With your bags your main luggage will be in the back of the van and not always readily available. Whilst it is possible to access these bags during the day we recommend that you also have a day pack that you can keep at the front of the van.
Ride and Seek kit
We have a limited supply of the Ride and Seek jerseys for you to buy for the not too princely sum of AU$80. The photo on the right is our 2014 tour jersey – let us know if you’d be interested and will dig around for your size. Another option is to get kit through our newest sponsor – Danny Shane. We are delighted to be associated with these guys and they are willing to extend a 10% discount to all of our guests. Check out their website to view their range – http://dannyshane.com. The image on the left is of one of guests wearing their kit on a recent tour in Europe.
Training preparation
The grading for this tour makes it clear that this tour is a challenging endeavour and we hope that your training to date reflects this. That said we are also aware that not everyone has the luxury of being able to dedicate themselves to training for a bike tour and a few of you might be a little undercooked.
The important thing to remember though is that you still have time to get yourself well prepared for the tour ahead. Probably the most important thing is simply preparing your body for sitting on a bike for multiple hours and then doing it again the day after. It is important to get that saddle time in so that when you’re on the tour you don’t spend the first few days trying to avoid sitting down!
Also go looking for hills. We don’t want to scare you with the elevation profiles on this tour but this it will be hilly! Whilst it is unlikely that you will have anything that compares to longer climbs we’ll encounter in your backyard you can still get yourself prepared by doing hill repetitions. Whilst it is pretty tedious doing reps up the toughest hill in your neighbourhood this sort of training will really build up your power.
At the same time go a little easy. You don’t want to arrive on tour already overcooked so remember to taper off a little towards the start of the tour. It is important to arrive fresh with your energy levels conserved. Don’t think you can fit in all of your training the weekend before!
Note that when you are actually on the tour you will have access to the van which among other things acts as a sag wagon if you want to take a break. There is absolutely no shame in taking advantage of this and we’d prefer it if you did rather than smashing yourself on one day and being out of action for the next two. You’ll know what condition you’re in so don’t be shy in signalling that you want a lift.
In essence though the more prepared you are physically for this tour the more you will enjoy it. There is still plenty of time to get your fitness levels up before the tour start.
Of course if you’d like to put together a more scientific approach to your training remember that Matt is a cycle coach and would be happy to help – matt.p.lucas01@gmail.com
The Vietnam Adventure
We are really excited to be exploring the region of Ha Giang on road bikes. A lot of research has gone into making this happen and in collaboration with our partners we believe that we will be running the first road bike tour to this beguiling region.
As such though it is important to recognise that we really are off the beaten track and as such salubriousness will not be the order of the day. Aside from the start and end of the tour the accommodation will be basic – all be it with private facilities, the food simple fare and the road surfaces inconsistent at times.
The scouting trip has been completed and we were relieved to find that the harsh monsoon season has not wreaked the havoc we feared it might have. A couple of the roads have been adversely affected by heavy truck movements and there is some road works that we’ll have to get around. The result will be a couple of changes to the original itinerary but nothing too dramatic.
We look forward to running an awesome tour but please come prepared with an open mind to the adventures that await!
Bikes – General
Bike Build
Please don’t unpack your bike on arrival as it will be taken off you on Saturday evening and shuttled up to the start point. The mechanics will then build them up and they will be ready to ride when we get to the start point of the ride on Sunday afternoon. On arrival at the first hotel you will be issued with luggage tags for your bikes. Give the tags for your bike to Thang at the Saturday intro meeting and he will arrange for them to be loaded on to the shuttle that evening.
Transportation
The onus is on you to get your bike to the start point of the tour. Whether you choose to pack your bike in a hard or soft case is your prerogative – either way we will transport the case until the end of the tour and can assist in unpacking and packing your bike.
If you require a shuttle from the airport to the first hotel let us know and we’ll put you in contact with our local partner (note that there is an additional cost of US$45 for this).
Spares
Our mechanic will have all the necessary tools but we suggest that you bring your own spares along too – inner tubes, pump etc
Tyre choice
The road quality in Vietnam can vary a lot and there is also the added complication of impromptu road repairs to deal with. Our advice is to fit at least 25mm tyres to your bike and if you have sufficient clearance you could also consider the 28mm option.
We also recommend that you choose a tyre that has a reputation for being hardy against punctures.
Gear ratios
There will be hills! A 53/39 is workable on the front but in terms of back cassette we’d recommend that you make life easier for yourself with something like a 11/28. Other options would be to fit a compact chain set or if you really wanted to make life easier and love the idea of a granny gear a triple is always an option.
The Roads
These are a series of shots that were taken during the recent scouting trip. Closer to Sapa we will come across some lovely smooth bitumen but by and large the road surface is all a bit average – hence our suggestion that you bring wider profile tyres that are not prone to flats.
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And here is the really ugly and the bad on the ride. The image on the left is where we will take the shuttle on day 5 as they have dug up a large part of the road. In Vietnam when they decide to do road works they don’t seem to do it in small stretches but rather dig up the whole road and then start the repairs. The image on the right on the other hand is the sort of surface we will find in patches. Not a problem to ride over but at the same time not overly pleasant. On our Vietnam odyssey we encourage you to expect the unexpected. Our lead guide will be on a motorbike though to hopefully manage those expectations on our behalf.
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Food
The hotels at the start and end of the tour are the most sophisticated and will have a reasonable range of options. However, once we are in the region of Ha Giang the cuisine will become more ‘local’ with fewer frills. We will bring some supplies up from Hanoi to provide a bit more variety but as we really are off the beaten track the banana pancakes of more frequented parts of South East Asia will be conspicuous by their absence!
Accommodation summary
On this tour we start and end in 4 star hotels with all the usual amenities. Once on tour though we are fairly isolated and will stay in simple guest houses that with the exception of one all have private bathrooms. Below is a collage of some of the guest houses in Ha Giang.
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General hygiene
For food, if you like to eat out of stainless and shiny white kitchens, you should probably not look at where your dinner is being produced. I would say though, that we’ve never had a case of food poisoning on a tour anywhere and the same goes for our partners who have run countless tours in Vietnam. The most common issue is viral gastro, which can be picked up from so many environmental sources. We eat in local restaurants with high turnover of ingredients and not much reliance on refrigeration.
Gels & Hydrolytes
We will provide snacks on the road in the form of fruit and refreshments. However, if you would like to use gels and hydrolytes during the tour it is up to you to bring your own supplies.
Massages
The massage option clearly appealed and pretty much all of you have paid the supplement which will entitle you to a 45 minute massage each evening that will no doubt be greatly welcomed. If you haven’t taken up this option and would like to do so let us know ASAP.
Internet
Internet is available in Hanoi and Sapa and is reliable in both places. Ha Giang and Meo Vac, not so reliable. 3G SIM cards are prepaid and can be bought from various phone shops around the place. Vietnam has more phone shops than any other kind of business. There are also dongles/USB modems available that you can slot SIM cards into. SIMs cost maybe $10, modems cost about $50.
Insurance
This is obviously an important one and is why we asked for your insurance details in the guest survey. Could we also ask that you provide next of kin details and the emergency contact number that your insurance company provides in the event of the need for an evacuation.
As is standard with bike tours we will get you to sign a risk waiver before the tour starts. A few people believe that these waivers are not worth the paper are written on but they are an important acknowledgement of the risks that are involved with going on bike tour. It is fundamental to us that we run a safe tour, but it is also important that all participants are aware of what is involved and have sufficient insurance cover in place.
What’s not included?
Bike hire, flights, visa fees, tips for Vietnamese support team (we suggest $40 from each participant), drinks other than water at meals, insurance, single supplement (price based on dual occupancy).
Facebook
A few of you are already ‘friends’ with us on Facebook – http://www.facebook.com/RideandSeek – and if you use it we recommend that the rest of you join us too. It’s a great medium to post photos and news both in the lead up to and during the tour when we post almost daily. It is also a great way to engage friends and family.
Coffee snobs rejoice, for Vietnam is the home of a good brew. Not just good – great. Think about a puddle of sweet condensed milk resting in the bottom of your glass. Think about ice cubes on top, already melting in the morning sun. Think about the little metal filter atop your glass, and the drip, drip, drip of rich coffee, an aromatic brew that will be mixed with the milk and the ice to form the perfect cold drink for a hot morning in Vietnam. Your day has begun.
Brunello di Montalcino – Could this be the true ‘King’ of Italian wines?
The story of Brunello embodies man’s quest for perfection. It begins with the discovery of a special grapevine on a steep Montalcino slope in 1842. That vine’s subsequent propagation by its founder, Clemente Santi, resulted in the creation of the Brunello wine.
Today, Brunello is considered one of Italy’s greatest wines and a supreme example of Sangiovese at its best. It has also become Italy’s most recognized premium wine, internationally. With a total production of 750,000 cases (9L), 65% finds its way into the world’s finest restaurants and connoisseur wine cellars. The United States has become the largest importer of Brunello, embracing 25% of the total production. Brunello’s international prominence was recognized by the Wine Spectator when it was selected the “Top Wine of the Year” in 2006.
In Italy at least it is the Piemontese Barolo that has assumed the moniker of being the ‘King of Wines’. Having travelled extensively in both Piedmont and Tuscany though I would contend that whilst this title was first bestowed centuries ago, given the choice I would usually go for glass of Brunello over one of Barolo.
With stage 3 of the Hannibal tour passing right through the heart the area in which Brunello is produced we thought we should at least give a bit of background on this most elegant of wines.
Brunello di Montalcino: Fast Facts
Production: 750,000 cases (9L), Vintage 2008
Vineyard Acreage: 4,700 acres
Grape Variety: 100% Sangiovese Grosso, although over 30 clones are used throughout the DOCG
DOC: Established in 1966; DOCG: Awarded in 1980
Minimum Alcohol: 12.5%; Maximum Yield: 3.2 tons/acre
Aging Requirements – Normale: Minimum of 4 years from January 1 after the harvest, 2 years in oak, 4 months in bottle.
Aging Requirements – Riserva: Minimum of 5 years from January 1 after the harvest, 2 years in oak, 6 months in bottle.
Now, the rest of the story…
The Place: The Montalcino zone takes its name from the town, which sits high on a hill as a fortified citadel with commanding expansive views in all directions. The zone encompasses 8,000 acres of vines, 4700 of which are dedicated to Brunello. The name, Montalcino derives from the Latin, “Mons Ilcinnus”, or mountain of holm oak. These oak trees grace the commune’s logo. Vineyards, while extensive, only cover 15% of the land, with forests, pastures, and fields of grain making up the rest. Indeed, Montalcino is like an elevated island amidst a sea of undulating wheat fields and pastures. The scenic beauty of the place won it a coveted UNESCO World Heritage Site award in 2004.
Lying some 27 miles south of Siena and 27 miles east of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Montalcino enjoys a much warmer and drier climate than its Chianti Classico neighbor to the north, and Montepulciano to the east. This, together with diverse soils (including rocky “galestro,” limestone, marl, clay, and sand) make for growing conditions which consistently ripen its finicky Sangiovese grapes earlier the either Chianti Classico or Montepulciano. In Montalcino, harvest is normally completed by late September, usually before the arrival of the October rains.
The Montalcino Zone resembles a square formed by 3 perimeter rivers: the Ombrone on the north and west, the Asso on the east, and the Orcia on the south. It rises from the perimeter to a crest at the Poggio Civitella (2168 ft), a short distance south of the town, Montacino. There are presently four notable wine production areas.
Just southeast of the town, the highest vineyards in the zone are located on steep terrain at an elevation of 1,300-1,600 feet. The site’s cool conditions favor slow ripening, producing wines that are more austerely structured, but are very age-worthy. Biond Santi’s “Il Greppo” estate is located here.
Northeast of the town, on lower slopes, near Montosoli and Canalicchio, the terroir allows the wines to show fuller, riper qualities to complement their structure.
Further north, toward the perimeter of the zone and at slightly lower elevations, the soil contains mainly clay with deposits of marl and sandy limestone. Areas such as Altesino and Catiglione del Bosco produce a more forward style of Brunello in this area.
Recent plantings in the southwest corner of the zone, near Sant’Angelo in Colle, Argiano, Pian della Mura, and Camigliano, have produced impressive wines with balance and structure. Here, sandy clay soils are often mixed with limestone and “galestro” at the higher sites. This area is closest to the sea and has a warmer microclimate.
The Grape: The name Brunello, meaning “the brown one,” came from the description of the Sangiovese Grosso grapes at harvest time – a dark colored, dusky brown berry. Brunello was the local name given to this type of Sangiovese Grosso, originally identified in 1842 by Clemente Santi. Today, the term is officially reserved for the name of the wine. Sangiovese grown in Montalcino has comparatively thicker skins, compared with grapes grown in other regions, and excellent anthocyanins. Both of these factors contribute to Brunello’s deep tannic structure and rich hue.
Sangiovese is Italy’s most planted single grape variety. It comprises 67% of the Tuscan vineyard acreage and is the main grape in 25 DOC(G)’s of Toscana. Sangiovese is an ancient grape, believed to have resulted from a spontaneous crossing during the Etruscan period. Recent DNA evidence reflects its parentage as a crossing between Ciliegiolo and Calabrese di Montenuovo.
However, there is significant diversity within the grape variety. Sangiovese tends to be genetically unstable and very adaptable; thus, many clones exist. Banfi Vineyards has documented over 600 versions of Sangiovese on their estate alone! Currently, as a result of extensive clonal research trials, the best clones are being propagated. Most estates are using multiple clones in order to add better balance and more complexity to their wines.
The Wine:Brunello di Montalcino projects an image of majesty and mystery that heightens its allure. This aura was cultivated by the Biondi Santi family. For 100 years, they were the only producers of the wine. The Biondi Santi estate “Il Greppo,” where Brunello was born, has been called Italy’s first “grand cru”.
However, the wine remained somewhat of an Italian secret until the 1960’s, when word began to spread about the tastings of the extraordinary Biondi Santi vintages of 1888 and 1891. Soon, the wine world turned its attention to this special place and its remarkable wine. The Biondi Santi family, led by Franco and his son Jacopo, carry the flag and continue to produce age-worthy Brunello at the family estate.
A growers’ consortium was established in 1967, and has become one of Italy’s most effective with 98% of today’s 208 producers being members. The consortium has guided a smooth growth in production, while advancing quality standards.
There is, however, growing internal controversy. Some “modernist” producers would like to shorten the 4-year aging requirement prior to release of the wine. Some also argue for the right to use small amounts of non-Sangiovese grapes. These changes are opposed by the “traditionalist” producers who have successfully, thus far, resisted these changes; aside from agreeing to reduce the required time in oak from 4 years to two years.
The Future:The path to wine stardom for Brunello has been like a “shooting star.” The influx of quality investment over the past 50 years continues and serves to accelerate and reinforce its meteoric rise to prominence. There are no “industrial” producers among its wine estates. Although there have been a few bumps in the road, the prospect for continued success is excellent.
In September 2012 Ride and Seek Bike Tours ran the inaugural Hannibal Epic from Barcelona to Rome. Split into 3 stages the tour was taken in separate stages or as one 27 day Epic. Steve Nash came on boardfor Stage 1 from Barcelona to Rome. His account of the experience can be read below.
The early morning light trickles across the ominous hills of the Montseny Mountain Range. Situated just north of Barcelona this picturesque area marks the start of a bike odyssey I’m about to embark on that follows in the trail of Hannibal, the Carthaginian general, his 100,000 strong army and 39 African elephants.
Briefed on the route ahead, with the close companion of my Garmin 800, I’m trying my best to empathize with what Hannibal and his men might have been thinking over 2000 years ago as they prepared to take on the might of Rome. We’re accompanied on our tour by archeologist Sam Wood who cycled this route as part of a BBC and National Geographic documentary – ‘On Hannibal’s Trail’ – and he does a fine job of setting the scene. To make us feel suitably intrepid he chose to overlook the fact Hannibal probably didn’t have GPS technology at his disposal.
As I look around at my new acquaintances, all of whom look the part, I remember how I had ended up here. It had been a brave conversation after a few beers at the foot of Canada’s Blackcomb Mountain. Living by Ernest Hemingway’s advice “Always do sober what you said you’d do drunk” I’d had no choice but to sign up. Knowing that the majority of day 1 was downhill only slightly assuaged the anxiety I felt at taking up the challenge.
Within kilometres of setting off I was experiencing for the first time travelling at +70Kmph on two very thin wheels! At this point it seemed a dangerously fast speed to be moving but I soon found myself sticking to pace-lines that I absolutely trusted switching from riding on the hoods to the drops as my speed grew parallel with confidence. At this point I had started to form a new relationship, not just with the iconic timeless beauty of the Specialized three times winner of the Paris-Roubaix race bike, but with myself.
Within any sport, it’s those that don’t train, show up in unimpressive gear, and still kick ass that leave you with a sense of jealousy, and in my own way, I think I had hoped for this but the first day had been a shock to the system. During the final 20km of the ride to Empuries I had found myself drifting into ‘The Zone’, a metaphysical exhaustion state that Bob, a well-travelled cycling guru had advised me of earlier that day. It was only when I ran into the sea at the end of the day that I started to feel ‘normal’ again.
Surprisingly, with the 7am banana filtering through and a couple of Torq energy gels ingested, setting off for Ceret the following morning had been less painful than anticipated. Bathing in the salt strip Mediterranean had clearly worked wonders! However, having descended from the mountains to the Mediterranean in a day we were now heading towards the Pyrenees on our way to France.
Whilst our route avoided the tougher climbs that this mountain range has to offer we were still faced with a fairly imposing elevation profile. It started to hurt about half way through the day when I faced another grueling climb in the deceptively tough Pyrenean foothills that are found in northern Catalunya. I was fast beginning to understand why the Sky team riders that passed us earlier in the day chose to train in this area. As I pushed and pushed I could feel the lighter and more experienced riders on my tail, occasionally one steadying past, with friendly comments, in voices somewhat out of breath which assured me I was not alone!
Our destination at the end of this day was the charming French town of Ceret that was once home to Picasso. Arriving through the convoluted streets I couldn’t help but feel perhaps that is where Picasso got much of his inspiration, the obtuse lines reminding me of ‘Ma Jolie’. After a brief sampling of Catalunyan cuisine we were now in the Languedoc region that relies heavily on local produce: olive oil, tomato sauces, herbs from the wild garrigue. Whether it was the exertions of the day that played a role I don’t know, but our first evening meal in this region was the finest I’ve ever had.
Not knowing much about the Languedoc before the tour I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’d read an article by Steve Razzetti in which he had listed the region as one of the best places in the world to ride but I was skeptical given that hardly anyone I spoke to even knew where it was. However, as we cycled deep into the region I began to appreciate what he was saying. We had the road to ourselves as we passed through stunning medieval hilltop villages and over incredible rolling hills as we headed deep into Cathar country.
It was amazing to get an insight into the history of the Cathar’s who inhabited this area from the 11th to 13th century. Ostensibly the tour was all about Hannibal but we also gained an insight into the broader history of the region too. Catharism was a Christian religious movement that was against what they perceived to be the moral, spiritual and political corruption of the Catholic Church. The Pope at the time didn’t take too kindly to this and called a crusade on these rebels to wipe them out. He then followed up with the first religious inquisition to finish the job and all that remains is a series of Cathar fortresses across the region. Perched in the most precarious of positions one such fortress provided a challenge at the end of day 3. Never has a post ride beer tasted so good after taking on the 2km 20% ramp climb to Chateau Queribus.
The most impressive of these fortresses though was the Chateau Peyrepertuse that sits on an imposing 2400m defensive crag which offers breathtaking views in all directions – probably a key prerequisite for a fortress I guess. Not all the guys, least of all myself, were too chuffed with the post ride hike up to this remarkable site but on getting there it was definitely worth it. Once again having guides that were able to explain the history of what we were seeing brought them to life. That said my personal highlight of the day was the wild boar that was served for dinner which had been caught in the woods below the fortress earlier in the week.
I’m sure that in part it was the fine sustenance that we found in the Languedoc which enabled me to take on each days riding with my legs surprisingly still going strong. However each day still started with a hearty breakfast of carbs and painkillers. Amazing how you can soldier on though when the scenery is spectacular and the food is so good. Seeing the impressive fortified Cite de Carcassonne in the distance on day 6 for example served as a beacon some 40km out and somehow the pain dissipated as it beckoned me in.
Granted as the aggregate distance increased I raised the dosage levels of medication and my joints were somewhat in disarray but with the camaraderie of the group getting stronger as the tour went on there was plenty of support to fall back on. The fine wines of the Languedoc that I have failed to mention also played a role. Staying away from the coast in the high Languedoc we really felt that we experienced the best the region has to offer. We gently ribbed Sam about why we were there when logic would surely dictate that Hannibal would have stayed closer to the coast on his journey but he seemed to have an answer to everything. Since I had no intention of reading the ancient texts of Polybius it was easier to take his word for it.
As we continued on our way to the Papal city of Avignon we joined the extraordinary Voie Verte that is a converted railway that links a number of the regions’ picturesque villages including Olargues, voted one of France’s most beautiful villages and the site of the medieval Devil’s Bridge. Our aperitif on the bridge is an abiding memory as is the fine cuisine served by our Danish hosts that evening who managed to fuse the best of Languedoc cuisine with a hint of Denmark.
My final day on the bike was a bit of a slog as we pushed our way through a continuous head wind, noting the incredible Clamouse cave, the Gorges de’Herault and the Pic Loup Cliffs on our way to the Rhone River. The day was long and tough on the legs, but from deep within the energy was there to sprint the last 20km, and passing through a small French village, youngsters playing a game of football on the street greeted us with chants of ‘Tour de France’. The medieval centre of Sommieres, rich in Roman history, was a highlight but the crossing of the Rhone and heading towards the golden Madonna on the Papal palace in Avignon will be the memory that lives the longest.
There is still much conjecture as to how Hannibal got himself, his army and elephants across the Rhone with a number of outlandish ideas having been put forward. From elephants walking along the bottom of the river with their trunks breaking through the surface to rafts being built and covered in earth to look like land, the list of hypotheses is long. This is very much the case with my own experience of getting from Barcelona to Avignon as few of my friends believe I actually made it under my own steam! In my case the consensus is that I hitched a lift with the support vehicle!
Notwithstanding my skeptical friends I have to say that never at any point did I feel the need to flag down the van. With great support from the Ride and Seek guides and my fellow Hannibal riders the challenge always felt surmountable. Having the routes uploaded on the Garmins was also a bonus as it allowed you to go at your own pace and never worry about losing your way. I’m not sure I could have done what a number of the others were doing and continue on to Rome, but it is amazing how much stronger you get when you conquer an epic ride such as this. I hadn’t started this ride expecting to feel better than I did at the start, but I certainly did. No matter how many things I will forget in life, this ride will certainly not be one of them.
With the Hannibal tour fast approaching I felt that I needed to get a couple of good long rides in as final preparation. It was with this idea in mind that I proposed to my regular riding partner, Al, that we cycle from Sydney to Canberra.
I already had tickets for the Australian Open squash champs and so it seemed like a logical idea at the time. Plan was to give ourselves 2 days to get there and arrive in time for me to catch the semi finals on the Saturday. The fact that getting there involved 2 century rides (in miles) and we are in the middle of winter was somehow overlooked or at least underplayed.
All started well as Al and I met at Central station at 5.45am to catch a train out to Sutherland in order to avoid the Sydney traffic. We were on the bikes by 6.30am and the ride began in style as we rode through the Royal National Park.
Al riding with the peloton outside the Bundanoon cafe and a brief visit to the Nan Tien temple just south of Woolongong
For the first part of the day I lost all feelings in my fingers – notwithstanding I’d spend a fortune on warm weather gear in the lead up to the ride – but fortunately the weather improved. Indeed, such was the improvement we actually got a bit of a tan on the first day.
The biggest challenge on the first day was undoubtedly Macquarie Pass which was a 750m ascent on a series of switchbacks. When Al stood on the pedals and shot off at the start I thought I was in for a lonely ride but he soon came back to my steady pace and we climbed together. On this day I think I found it a little easier than Al and not even the copious amounts of Gu gel helped him. Never has the pie shop at the top of the climb met such a ravenous man as Al was when we arrived!
The other tough element of the climb was that the weather changed with some bitingly cold rain coming down and the wind picked up. At this point the legs were getting a bit weary but our B & B beckoned and we had a couple of big steaks that evening to prepare for the next day.
Al refueling at the Robertson pie shop and the awesome views across Morton National Park.
Unfortunately though nothing could fully prepare us for the next day as we woke up to a 50km southerly wind – basically a head wind all the way to Canberra. Things weren’t helped either by the fact that 30km’s in my knees started to hurt too and hence whilst I’d towed Al up the Pass he had to return the favour on day 2.
We tried to stay on our original route but our GPS’s started having a couple of issues and we were both going a bit stir crazy with the wind so after 90km we decided to ride the highway to Canberra. At this point the pleasure had gone and it had become grind but with no transport links to speak of, riding was the only option. After a 7am start we finally got to Canberra for nightfall!
The stunning Fitzroy Falls and the reason for the ride in the first place – The Australian Open- which Ramy Ashour won on the Sunday.
Clearly I missed the semi finals of the squash by a good 4 hours but it was still great to arrive. We ended up doing 370km in total and boy did our legs know about it. That evening we went out with some friends for feed and the communal order only really worked for 2 people – us!- and a couple of well earned ales.
I’m delighted to have got the riding under my belt and it really reinforced the importance of getting some solid riding in before the start of a tour. Hopefully those knee pains were just a way of my body adjusting and won’t pop up again somewhere in the Alps.
If you’ve ever entertained a dream of riding a grand European tour of your own, through famous wine regions and sampling the local delicacies, or perhaps following in the footsteps of historic legends like Hannibal or Napoleon, Ride & Seek Bike Tours can turn that dream into a reality.
Last year, three Australian brothers, Danny, Sam and Ben Wood, retraced the steps of the Roman conqueror, Hannibal, from Barcelona to Rome. The journey was filmed and edited into a BBC Four documentary. Sam Wood, alongside tour director Dylan Reynolds, has since established Ride & Seek to offer the experience to cycle tourists. And if you’re not interested in ancient history (or partaking in the local specialties), they also offer classical tours through France and Italy’s most scenic gastronomically enticing regions. I caught up with Dylan, a tour designer, scout and leader with 12 years experience, to find out a little more about Ride & Seek the journey that brought him to this point:
Dylan, you must be clocking up some touring miles by now, and have rode through some interesting and beautiful territory. Can you tell us what your favorite route is, and why? There’s a tough question to start. You’re right, I’ve certainly had the privilege of riding through some pretty awesome landscapes over the years. I guess in terms of favourites I’d have to lean towards some of the touring I’ve done in my own time. By design the commercial bike tours I’ve led always take you through the best parts of the region they visit but as a guide you know what to expect. The routes that stick in the memory are those that come as a bit of a surprise. I cycled down the west coast of the US a few years ago and riding through the giant redwood forests was pretty mind blowing. In Europe the ride up to Volterra in Tuscany at sunset takes some beating, especially the first time I did it with a couple of mates when we were cruising around the region with no idea as to where we’d end up.
After 12 years of leading bike tours, you must be getting close to achieving your ideal setup. Can you give us a quick rundown of your equipment list for an extended tour? I guess in terms of set up the art to leading a successful bike tour is covering all potential eventualities, of which there are many. The obvious in this regard are mechanical and health issues that will sometimes arise. Logistically on a tour the accommodation and meals are booked in advance so that element is covered and doubled checked on the pre tours before the tour proper starts. That said probably the most important tool a bike guide has is his/her mobile phone as it is important to phone ahead of time to make sure everything is in place. Another key element is the van that accompanies every tour and acts as the luggage carrier, sag wagon and snack storage. We work as a 2 guide team with the guides alternating driving the van and riding the bike. Obviously most guides prefer the latter but there is definitely a skill in offering decent van support to the touring group. The van also carries the spare bikes, a variety of bike spares, picnic gear for the days that we put on lunch during the day, everyone’s day packs and whatever else besides.
What do you love most about bicycle touring? Cliched as it sounds I can’t think of a better way to travel and explore an area. As much as I enjoy hiking you can only cover a relatively small area. ‘Going for a drive’ has never really rocked my boat as I use a car as a means of getting from A to B and that’s it. On a bike you get the chance to really connect with the area you’re travelling through taking in the sights, sounds and smells as you go along as well as meeting the locals along the way. The biggest plus in my book though is that you build up a great appetite riding a bike and since food and wine are two of my favourite things the fact that they both seem to taste better after you’ve been on a bike all day is a big bonus.
Ride and Seek is your new venture, offering bicycle tours through some of Europe’s most beautiful regions. Can you give us a little background to the business? Who are your partners, and what was the events that lead to the founding of the company? Sure. The idea of Ride and Seek was a culmination of a whole lot of thinking and planning on the part of both by myself and Sam, my partner, on the venture. We both had been making plans independently though and it was only when we got chatting at a wedding last year that our plans converged. I was already in the process of putting together some tours with guiding buddies based in Europe and Sam was keen to set something up on the back of the success he’d had with the BBC documentary ‘On Hannibal’s Trail’. When we got chatting it seemed a natural step to start collaborating together and bring together our respective expertise and ideas. Both of us are mad keen on cycling so that was a given, but I was able to bring my guiding experience to the table and Sam who is an archaeologist by trade conceptualized the Expedition tour idea that we are both really excited about. Excuse the pun but the rest is history
Ride and Seek offers Classic Tours whose itineraries read like a foodie’s pilgrimage. Personally, what’s your favorite stop on these tours? I think I’d probably have to go for the town of Alba in Piedmont, Italy. The smell of Nutella that permeates the air as you cycle in – it’s the home of the Ferrero chocolate business – gets the taste buds going and the choice on offer in the town doesn’t disappoint. Just down the road in Bra is where the Slow Food movement began and it is an ethos that the town seems to live by. Alba is also the gateway to the Langhe region where some of Italy’s finest wines are produced – Barolo and Barbaresco to name a couple. The town also hosts the world’s most prestigious truffle fair each year which is a site to behold. White and black truffles are found in the surrounding hills and a highlight of our Piedmont tour is that we take guests out with a truffle hunter and his dog. He is happy to share the secrets of his trade as well as sharing any truffles he might find.
The Historical Tours, retracing the steps of Hannibal and Napoleon, would even sound enthralling to cyclists who might never have considered such a journey. Have you any more Historical Tours planned for the future? Sure. Both Sam and I are really into the Expedition element of the tour and incorporating the historical element into the tour format. Sam has a list as long as his arm of historical figures he thinks we could create a tour around – a good few of whom I’ve never heard of! I know that a tour following in the footsteps of Alexander the Great is one idea that really excites him but since that would involve a tour over 32,000km long it might be on the drawing board for a while. Spartacus and Hercules are two other tours that he has in mind that would be easier to put together. Personally I’d love to do a tour that follows in the footsteps of the Incas in South America or Marco Polo on the Silk Road.
How easy is it for a cyclist from another country (for example, Australia or the US), to bring their own bike on a tour? It’s a strange one this in that when I first started guiding I’d say the majority of the riders on tours brought their own bikes and I can’t remember there being too many issues. In recent years though with bike tour companies providing decent bikes people seem to be happy to leave their bikes at home. For example we have sourced the Trek Madone 5.2 and Specialized Roubaix for people coming on our tours as well as a decent spec flat bar hybrid, so guests can avoid the hassle of bringing their own bike knowing that they’ll have a decent bike for the tour. That said I appreciate that a lot of riders simply like to have their owns bikes as that is what they are used too and I wouldn’t discourage them. From experience I’d say by all means bring your own bike but account for the possibility that it might get delayed in transit. If you were booked to arrive from Australia or the US the day before the tour started you would be cutting it a bit fine but if you were arriving in Europe a few days before then at least you have a buffer. In conclusion bring your own bike but make sure you pack it properly or get someone to do it for you, and chat with the tour operator regarding what can be done with the bike box whilst you’re on tour.
Have you any tips for novice cyclists considering one of your tours? What about tips for more experienced bike tourists? The great thing about going on a guided bike tour is that the guides hopefully take the logistical element out of the equation and allow the traveller to just concentrate on the fun bits of riding their bike, taking in the scenery and sampling the gastronomy of the region. In terms of tips for the novices i guess the best piece of advice I can offer is to read the grading spiel for each tour carefully and don’t overestimate your abilities. Whilst the van is always available as a back up and can come in very useful at the bottom of any steeper hills I think that people will generally have a better time if they manage their expectations beforehand. In this sense it is always a good idea to get some bike time in before you come on tour irregardless of the difficulty rating we have given the tour. If nothing else it means that you’re backside will already be prepared for spending multiple days on a bike seat. Our espresso grading system is designed to give potential guests an idea of what sort of rider each tour is aimed at and whilst slightly subjective provides a decent guide. For the experienced bike tourist all I’d say is come along for the ride and enjoy being pampered for once!
Who are your modern day heroes, cycling or otherwise? As a kid I was a huge Pedro Delgado fan and whenever we went off on family bike trips I would pretend to be him on the customary sprint to every village sign we came across. The subsequent doping allegations apart he is still pretty high on my list. The Italian cyclist Girardengo is a hero from the past but I guess the De Gregori song about ‘Il bandito e il campione’ played a part in that. Among today’s riders I have to say I was chuffed that Cadel finally got a tour win under his belt and I’m always happy to see Cav on the podium. Special mention should also go to a guy called Alastair Humphreys who rode around the world a few years back and whose take on life through his blog I find pretty inspirational.
Are you optimistic about the future of cycling, and in particular, cycle touring? Definitely. There seems to be a real buzz around cycling at the moment at all levels from commuting up to the professional ranks. I’ve lost count of the number of blogs I’ve followed of people cycling around the world and I love the fact that chatting about the Tour or the Giro seems to become almost commonplace at work. On the bike tour front I think the fact that tourist numbers on the bike tours I lead have continued to increase over the last few years – even through the GFC – suggests that the appeal of bike touring is continuing to grow. Having set up a new bike tour venture we certainly hope that is the case anyway!
If you’ve ever had an inclination to tour by bicycle through Spain, France or Italy (or all three), make sure you bookmark Ride & Seek. There’s plenty of inspiration there. Thanks to Dylan and Sam for the words and photography
